We went back to Malham. The green and lush grass was now stamped and the path double the width. There was now a line to climb up the waterfall, waiting for people in front of us to be done with taking glorious selfies after an hesitant ascent. Parents were pushing scared and crying children to the top, just for a picture. Trash. Traffic. I loved Malham the first time. I hated it this time. Things change.